Whether it is your home, office, or any other place you would like to make cool and dry, air conditioner service in Bandar Utama will work for you quite well. Let us take a closer look at these air conditioner devices and see what they can do for you.
Find The Top Portable Aircon in Bandar Utama, Selangor
First of all, you need to understand some basic definitions. An air conditioner in the Bandar Utama area is a device that adjusts the air temperature in order to maintain a comfortable temperature in a room. It does this by cooling the air by transferring energy from the room via condenser coils that are placed out of the room. On the other hand, a dehumidifier is a device that lowers the humidity in the air thus avoiding dampness. It does not remove energy from the room. This is due to the fact that the entire unit is installed indoors.
An air conditioner by itself has its own limitations as well. It can lower humidity in the air, the process of condensation will dissipate heat, which means that extra BTU’s are needed for cooling the air. As a result, its energy rating will be lowered. When you try to compensate by letting it operate for a longer duration, the air will get too cold for comfort. In addition, you will end up using too much energy. In addition, they are often associated with a number of health complications. You need very high maintenance levels to avoid the build-up of bacteria.
Wall Mounted Air Conditioners - A Convenient Cooling Option
My air conditioner is freezing up almost daily. I've tried resetting the temperature and nothing seems to work. What would you suggest I to to stop my air conditioner from freezing?
There are several factors that could be the cause. The four main reasons for air conditioner freeze ups:
Insufficient air flow
You may have a low refrigerant charge which can cause the air conditioner to freeze up. The system needs to be charged correctly to enable it to work properly. You may have a leak in the refrigerant lines.
These are the main reasons why air conditioners freeze up. If you're lucky it may just be a dirty filter which you should be able to replace yourself.
Benefits of Heater Air Conditioners
Air conditioner compressors usually fail due to one of two conditions: time and hours of operation (wear out), or abuse. There are some failures that can occur elsewhere in the system that will cause a compressor failure, but these are less common unless the system has been substantially abused.
Usually abuse is a result of extended running with improper freon charge, or as a consequence of improper service along the way. This improper service can include overcharging, undercharging, installing the wrong starter capacitor as a replacement, removing (rather than repairing/replacing) the thermal limiter, insufficient oil, mixing incompatible oil types, or wrong oil, installing the compressor on a system that had a major burnout without taking proper steps to remove the acid from the system, installing the wrong compressor (too small) for the system, or installing a new compressor on a system that had some other failure that was never diagnosed.
The compressor can fail in only a handful of different ways. It can fail open, fail shorted, experience a bearing failure, or a piston failure (throw a rod), or experience a valve failure. That is pretty much the entire list.
When a compressor fails open, a wire inside the compressor breaks. This is unserviceable and the symptom is that the compressor does not run, though it may hum. If the compressor fails open, and following the steps here does not fix it, then the system may be a good candidate for a new compressor. This failure causes no further failures and won't damage the rest of the system; if the rest of the system is not decrepit then it would be cost effective to just put a new compressor in.
Testing for a failed open compressor is easy. Pop the electrical cover for the compressor off, and remove the wires and the thermal limiter. Using an ohmmeter, measure the impedance from one terminal to another across all three terminals of the compressor. Also measure the impedance to the case of the compressor for all three terminals.
You should read low impedance values for all terminal to terminal connections (a few hundred ohms or less) and you should have a high impedance (several kilo-ohms or greater) for all terminals to the case (which is ground). If any of the terminal to terminal connections is a very high impedance, you have a failed open compressor. In very rare cases, a failed open compressor may show a low impedance to ground from one terminal (which will be one of the terminals associated with the failed open). In this case, the broken wire has moved and is contacting the case. This condition - which is quite rare but not impossible - could cause a breaker to trip and could result in a misdiagnosis of failed short. Be careful here; do an acid test of the contents of the lines before deciding how to proceed with repair.
Now, if the compressor is mechanically locked up it could be because of a couple of things. If the compressor is on a heat pump, make sure the reversing valve is not stuck half way. Also make sure the expansion valve is working; if it is blocked it can lock the compressor. Also make sure the filter is not clogged. I once saw a system that had a locked compressor due to liquid lock. Some idiot had "serviced" the system by adding freon, and adding freon, and adding freon until the thing was completely full of liquid. Trust me; that does not work.
Should diagnosis show a clogged filter, then this should be taken as positive evidence of some failure in the system OTHER than a compressor failure. Typically, it will be metal fragments out of the compressor that clogs the filter. This can only happen if something is causing the compressor to wear very rapidly, particularly in the pistons, the rings, the bores, and the bearings. Either the compressor has vastly insufficient lubrication OR (and more commonly) liquid freon is getting into the compressor on the suction line. This behavior must be stopped. Look at the expansion valve and at the reversing valve (for a heat pump).
Often an old system experiences enough mechanical wear internally that it is "worn in" and needs more torque to start against the system load than can be delivered. This system will sound just like one with a locked bearing; the compressor will buzz loudly for a few seconds then the thermal limiter will kill it. Occasionally, this system will start right up if you whack the compressor with a rubber mallet while it is buzzing. Such a system is a good candidate for a hard-start kit. This kit stores energy and, when the compressor is told to start, dumps extra current into the compressor for a second or so. This overloads the compressor, but gives some extra torque for a short time and is often enough to make that compressor run again. I have had hard-start kits give me an extra 8 or 9 years in some old units that otherwise I would have been replacing. Conversely, I have had them give only a few months. It is your call, but considering how cheap a hard-start kit is, it is worth trying when the symptoms are as described.
And this, in a nutshell, is what can happen to an air conditioner compressor and what you can do about it.